Alaïa Fall/Winter’18 involved, in part, wool swing coats with collars that frame the neck like a sculpture and with elaborate scribbles of hand-appliqued leather string, like a language only the wearer could read. Plus sleeveless dresses pieced together from half-moon panels of fabric in a graduated cone, so the bodice hugged the torso and the skirt swayed just a little with the walk, engineered to harness the body’s resonance.

Why the line also included a new capsule of reissued designs from the mid-‘80s and ‘90s (thick ribbed sweaters with nipped-in waists; blouson backs and matching miniskirts; malleable shearling jackets with embroideries up the sides) that wore their date on their tags, because if they didn’t, you’d never know when they were made.

Azzedine Alaïa has a comprehensive understanding of the female form, thanks to an education in sculpture from École des Beaux-Arts. Revered for his bodycon silhouettes that defined the aesthetic of Paris in the ‘80s, the French designer is also known for his intricate footwear, statement bags and laser-cut accessories. Don’t miss the sculpting knitted dresses and gown in our ready-to-wear edit.

This was a collection that was unmistakably Alaïa – the fit and flare silhouettes, those pleated skirts spliced with leather, cropped jackets and knitted black gowns – but there were plenty of interesting textures and folksy references to make it all feel new; to thrill the eye, and – from a client’s perspective – fuel the spend. And it would be money well spent.

Anyone who has ever bought a vintage piece of Alaïa lately will know it’s immune to ever looking old. Few other brands remain as relevant today as they were three decades ago. The smart woman ordering from this line-up considers the purchase akin to an heirloom worth the investment.