For Alaïa loyalists, this season features exact re-editions of certain favorites, like a polka dot faille trench or a denim peacoat from Summer 1992—a nod to the Tati exhibition currently on show at the Association Azzedine Alaïa, through January 5.
Alaïa also had a personal archive of favorite materials, some of which, like the artisanally made “pois” embroidered poplin, were produced especially for him on 19th-century looms in Switzerland. Today, that motif returns to amazing effect in knits by the supplier with whom Mr. Alaïa worked for more than four decades (and who helped him develop and introduce leggings made with Lycra). Those, as well as a new series of silk knits, not to mention a longer version of the Tina Turner skirt, will certainly appeal to a fan base that loves body-con dressing.
“We try always try to have something that relates to our history, without being dated or nostalgic—Mr. Alaïa was never nostalgic,” said Fabre Bazin. And so it is that a bow theme may nod to a collection from 2010, signature studs may return via 3D printing, a technical silk organza may be embroidered with an archival motif and then used on a different silhouette, or a print from 1991 may find fresh relevance on different materials. Ultimately, “then” fuses with “now” and you begin to sense how the archivists must feel as they tackle the designer’s vast legacy.
Courtesy of vogue.com
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