More evidence that crafts are the lingua franca of the Spring shows—this time from Luke and Lucie Meier at Jil Sander. The husband-and-wife duo explored natural raffia detailing in their new collection, in vivid counterpoint to the sharp tailoring that the house is known for. Minimalism may be at the essence of the brand, but that aesthetic can lean antiseptic and cold. At a moment when consumers are examining their designer purchases more closely than ever, evidence of the hand is not just a point of distinction, it’s a way to exhibit heart and soul. To make a connection.
The Meiers were indeed thinking about connections with this show. A pair of prints—one of fish, the other virgins—were designed to represent their Pisces (Lucie) and Virgo (Luke) signs: They’re astrological opposites. The notion of opposites was another organizing principle. They liked the look of a tailored two-button jacket over a silk slip dress or a draped jersey dress in a new-for-them marble print, and they also paired long silk tunics embroidered with sequins in the shapes of birds over narrow trousers: structure and flou; soft and hard. It can be difficult to wrestle the stiffness out of the Sander legacy, so these were meaningful steps forward for the duo.
Courtesy of vogue.com
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