Jil Sander

Fall 2019

Anyone eager for lessons in the dress-over-pants look—the “It” silhouette of 2019—should make a study of Lucie and Luke Meier’s latest Jil Sander collection. The Meiers were thinking about the interplay of masculine and feminine for Fall, and in many cases tonight they combined the two modalities in one look: slipping a crisp white shirtdress over full-legged black trousers; a leather smock on top of leather pants, the pants in a slightly deeper shade of yellow than the smock; or a willowy knit tunic above matching knit leggings with zips inside the ankles. Layering like this has looked cumbersome and unwieldy on other runways this season, but with their shared appreciation for simplicity, the Meiers made a case for the ease of this silhouette: It’s feminine but with a sturdy foundation.

Jil Sander the brand was built on tailoring. The Meiers have paid the subject due attention since arriving in 2017. There was certainly no shortage of jackets in this 60-look collection, and sturdy is the operative word for the ones in raw-edged felted wool. A little loosening up wouldn’t have gone amiss; the Meiers could stand to undo another proverbial button or two. The designers were at their best here when they were thinking along sensual, relaxed lines. They seemed to intuit this with the hand-drawn prints of herons, sandpipers, and swallows that decorated the bodice of a long dress and the backs of vests and jackets. The show’s hero pieces were a pair of cotton dresses with tea towel stripes decorating cuffs and hems. Unassuming in the most seductive way, they conjured images of the seaside and all the blissful associations that come with it. More of this kind of thing next Spring. The dyed-in-the-wool city girl can simply throw one on over her favorite Jil trousers. Courtesy of vogue.com

 

Available in Jade Plaza Indonesia

Jil Sander

Spring/ Summer 2019

Butterfly bushes and giant leafy plants sprouted from the tiled floor of the old panettone factory that served as the location for Jil Sander’s show. Designers Luke and Lucie Meier, now in their third ready-to-wear runway season at the label, were thinking about nature and order and where they rub up against each other for Spring. (Alan Weisman’s 2007 book The World Without Us is great on this subject.) It’s an apt area of examination for the duo, who inherited a sartorially oriented brand in a fashion moment that’s casual in the extreme. What should a pantsuit look like in 2019?

The Meiers played with Dickies-style work shirts or art smocks, in fabrics with a sturdy stiffness. In head-to-toe monochrome, these pantsuits and skirtsuits were chic enough but with a certain aloofness that uniforms tend to imply. Nature entered the picture in the form of several blue garment-dyed silks that the Meiers cut into a zip-front jacket, a long windbreaker, and pull-on pants. These had a looseness and freedom, and they warmed up this section of the show. Elsewhere, the checked and ribbed knit separates also resonated: They possessed a sensual ease in tune with the way women are dressing now.

The Meiers came out for their bows wearing white T-shirts, black pants, and sneakers—in uniform. Luke said he identified the functionality of uniforms with the act of “getting good at something.” That makes sense. The Meiers are committed minimalists and assured technicians; they’re a good fit for Jil. But it might still take really getting in touch with nature to revitalize this label.

 

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Jil Sander

Resort 2019

The Meiers’ take on daily life’s motifs is utterly sophisticated; in their hands even the unassuming plastic shopping bag used for errands at the Saturday farmers’ market becomes an adorable object of desire, knitted in nylon in mouthwatering sherbet colors and delicately embroidered with tiny beads. Other mundane objects, like striped mattresses, kitchen tiles, and Vichy tablecloths, received the same ultra-polished treatment, stripped bare of any literal reference and translated into linear, beautifully layered elastic tunics and tops or fluid shirting ensembles and pajama suits, nodding to the feeling of intimacy and ease they wanted to celebrate.

Tailoring, always a strong point at Jil Sander, was given a soft edge and a sense of functional purpose; even when close to the body, shapes were kept light and nonrestrictive, cut loose with sharp precision. An artisanal finish in the choice of textures gave substance to the sensuous flair of shell overcoats, loose egg-shaped jackets or blazers with detachable bibs, and feminine corsets zippered on the inside. “Luxury has to do with feeling good in your clothes and in your personality,” said Lucie. “It’s also about empowerment, which only comes through confidence and ease.”

 

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Jil Sander

Pre Fall 2018

 

What’s next? That’s the question that Jil Sander creative directors Lucie and Luke Meier asked themselves for pre-fall.

In particular, they tried to focus not only on defining the possible future for the brand they joined in April, but also on imagining the imminent future of the world we live in. “We want to be positive,” said Luke Meier.

As a result of this approach, the designers focused on a comfortable, relaxed mood, which translated into “soft, cocooning, cozy and close to the body” silhouettes, as Lucie Meier described the overall shape of the lineup.

A sense of ethereal beauty ran through the collection, which opened with a futuristic-like featherweight, oversized padded coat cinched at the waist with a tone-on-tone corset. The outerwear piece was layered over a soft knitted turtleneck sweater and ribbed knitted joggers, heightening the sense of ease and comfort.

Beautiful shearling coats were worn with bias-cut skirts and wrapped sweaters, while jackets echoed cardigan styles and featured asymmetric closures, creating interesting volumes and drapes.

Jil Sander’s signature rigor informed the range of crispy cotton shirts and tailored suits, which were peppered with quirky touches such as asymmetric pockets and lines.

While centered around classic tones of cream and off-white, blue, gray and an elegant burnt brown, the lineup also included vivid accents of sky blue, orange and green, which popped in the chic floral jacquards of V-dresses, draped tops and asymmetric flared skirts.

 

Available in Jade Plaza Indonesia

Jil Sander

Spring Summer 2018

 

The Meiers did a deep study of the designer’s work and came to the conclusion that we misremember Sander. “A lot of the time, the first impression of her is cold, sparse, and hard,” Luke said. “What she did,” Lucie added, “was also feminine, light, and sensual; that was the approach for us.” So, yes, there were suits here and they were Jil Sander correct, with narrowed shoulders and sharp creases on the arms and body, plus the occasional sliced seam to amplify visual interest. And the designers devoted a fair bit of attention to the Sander-signature white shirt, de-crisping it with soft puffed sleeves and generous volumes, or elongating it into shirtdresses of ascetic proportions. The surprise was in the collection’s craftiness. On the continuum of less to more convincing were color-blocked sweater dresses in an openwork stitch; macramé accents under coats, circling waistbands, and draped on top of shirts; and delicately but generously smocked ethereal white dresses.

 

Available in Jade Plaza Indonesia