Jil Sander

Pre Fall 2018

 

What’s next? That’s the question that Jil Sander creative directors Lucie and Luke Meier asked themselves for pre-fall.

In particular, they tried to focus not only on defining the possible future for the brand they joined in April, but also on imagining the imminent future of the world we live in. “We want to be positive,” said Luke Meier.

As a result of this approach, the designers focused on a comfortable, relaxed mood, which translated into “soft, cocooning, cozy and close to the body” silhouettes, as Lucie Meier described the overall shape of the lineup.

A sense of ethereal beauty ran through the collection, which opened with a futuristic-like featherweight, oversized padded coat cinched at the waist with a tone-on-tone corset. The outerwear piece was layered over a soft knitted turtleneck sweater and ribbed knitted joggers, heightening the sense of ease and comfort.

Beautiful shearling coats were worn with bias-cut skirts and wrapped sweaters, while jackets echoed cardigan styles and featured asymmetric closures, creating interesting volumes and drapes.

Jil Sander’s signature rigor informed the range of crispy cotton shirts and tailored suits, which were peppered with quirky touches such as asymmetric pockets and lines.

While centered around classic tones of cream and off-white, blue, gray and an elegant burnt brown, the lineup also included vivid accents of sky blue, orange and green, which popped in the chic floral jacquards of V-dresses, draped tops and asymmetric flared skirts.

 

Available in Jade Plaza Indonesia

Jil Sander

Spring Summer 2018

 

The Meiers did a deep study of the designer’s work and came to the conclusion that we misremember Sander. “A lot of the time, the first impression of her is cold, sparse, and hard,” Luke said. “What she did,” Lucie added, “was also feminine, light, and sensual; that was the approach for us.” So, yes, there were suits here and they were Jil Sander correct, with narrowed shoulders and sharp creases on the arms and body, plus the occasional sliced seam to amplify visual interest. And the designers devoted a fair bit of attention to the Sander-signature white shirt, de-crisping it with soft puffed sleeves and generous volumes, or elongating it into shirtdresses of ascetic proportions. The surprise was in the collection’s craftiness. On the continuum of less to more convincing were color-blocked sweater dresses in an openwork stitch; macramé accents under coats, circling waistbands, and draped on top of shirts; and delicately but generously smocked ethereal white dresses.

 

Available in Jade Plaza Indonesia