Anyone eager for lessons in the dress-over-pants look—the “It” silhouette of 2019—should make a study of Lucie and Luke Meier’s latest Jil Sander collection. The Meiers were thinking about the interplay of masculine and feminine for Fall, and in many cases tonight they combined the two modalities in one look: slipping a crisp white shirtdress over full-legged black trousers; a leather smock on top of leather pants, the pants in a slightly deeper shade of yellow than the smock; or a willowy knit tunic above matching knit leggings with zips inside the ankles. Layering like this has looked cumbersome and unwieldy on other runways this season, but with their shared appreciation for simplicity, the Meiers made a case for the ease of this silhouette: It’s feminine but with a sturdy foundation.
Jil Sander the brand was built on tailoring. The Meiers have paid the subject due attention since arriving in 2017. There was certainly no shortage of jackets in this 60-look collection, and sturdy is the operative word for the ones in raw-edged felted wool. A little loosening up wouldn’t have gone amiss; the Meiers could stand to undo another proverbial button or two. The designers were at their best here when they were thinking along sensual, relaxed lines. They seemed to intuit this with the hand-drawn prints of herons, sandpipers, and swallows that decorated the bodice of a long dress and the backs of vests and jackets. The show’s hero pieces were a pair of cotton dresses with tea towel stripes decorating cuffs and hems. Unassuming in the most seductive way, they conjured images of the seaside and all the blissful associations that come with it. More of this kind of thing next Spring. The dyed-in-the-wool city girl can simply throw one on over her favorite Jil trousers. Courtesy of vogue.com
Available in Jade Plaza Indonesia