Spring/ Summer 2019
Butterfly bushes and giant leafy plants sprouted from the tiled floor of the old panettone factory that served as the location for Jil Sander’s show. Designers Luke and Lucie Meier, now in their third ready-to-wear runway season at the label, were thinking about nature and order and where they rub up against each other for Spring. (Alan Weisman’s 2007 book The World Without Us is great on this subject.) It’s an apt area of examination for the duo, who inherited a sartorially oriented brand in a fashion moment that’s casual in the extreme. What should a pantsuit look like in 2019?
The Meiers played with Dickies-style work shirts or art smocks, in fabrics with a sturdy stiffness. In head-to-toe monochrome, these pantsuits and skirtsuits were chic enough but with a certain aloofness that uniforms tend to imply. Nature entered the picture in the form of several blue garment-dyed silks that the Meiers cut into a zip-front jacket, a long windbreaker, and pull-on pants. These had a looseness and freedom, and they warmed up this section of the show. Elsewhere, the checked and ribbed knit separates also resonated: They possessed a sensual ease in tune with the way women are dressing now.
The Meiers came out for their bows wearing white T-shirts, black pants, and sneakers—in uniform. Luke said he identified the functionality of uniforms with the act of “getting good at something.” That makes sense. The Meiers are committed minimalists and assured technicians; they’re a good fit for Jil. But it might still take really getting in touch with nature to revitalize this label.
Available in Jade Plaza Indonesia