Whether worn as a suggestive midpoint somewhere between dressed and undressed or zipped up and done up, this was a collection bulging with merchandise worth heavy-breathing over. The ragged-pattern lace—which mirrored the disarray of that bouclé—and the richly embellished silks were precision-cut to punctuate the form within.
Dell’Acqua said he had been inspired by Brian De Palma’s Dressed to Kill, a very stylish but very much male-gaze “erotic thriller” that reflects the mores of 1980. Some touches, like the large bows on the back of certain dresses—which, in the context of the presentation, seemed to suggest the wearers were somehow gifts—and the choice of the name given to the handbag that many models were dangling, the Lolita, seemed pretty dubious. Yet you could see that Dell’Acqua’s exploration of what he called “the sexiness situation” came from a sincere and, to him, feminocentric place: These were clothes that allowed the wearer to compel, repel, or impel the male eye depending on the manner of their deployment. In 2019, the so-called sexiness situation, however, is a territory whose rapidly shifting churns, currents, and corrections all require careful and nuanced navigation.
Courtesy of vogue.com
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