Roland Mouret

Pre-Fall 2018

 

The Roland Mouret silhouette is evolutionised further into a more relaxed fit of high-waisted wide leg trousers, flowing spotted lurex fils coupé gowns and puff sleeved A-line dresses. Fuller skirts; tea length hemlines and shoulder-baring necklines find balance in an eclectic mix of fabrics that include diamond checked weave, textured shell organza and silk hammered satin. Solid bright colours bring further life to the collection, in vivid Persian red, pistachio, candy pink and cornflower blue, whilst boxy jackets with exposed lapels and belted lightweight coats bring a structured, modern air to the collection.

Exploring the depth of what can be communicated through movement and gesture, Roland encourages women to inject their own personalities and life experiences into the pieces. Just as dance costumes enhance the performance and must allow maximum freedom of movement, yet retain yet never losing sight of the reality of the female form, Roland’s collection emphasises liberal sensuality and gracefulness.

 

Available in Jade Plaza Indonesia

Roland Mouret

Spring Summer 2018

 

Mouret, a designer who’s sensitive to the shifting nuances of sexual identity and sexuality, challenged himself to think differently. The fabrics, for instance: If everything in the past was about taut control, for next spring he went looser and freer, both literally and metaphorically. (He compared it to sitting in a restaurant and only ordering what you’d never tried before.) While there was still quite a few looks that would take a honed physique even further—and why not? It’s what many of the Mouret-clad women sitting at the show expect from him—elsewhere he had indeed cut himself free. Take the almost folksy patching of black, white, and purple florals for the opening skirt and top, the edges gently frayed (a nod to his past as a scissormeister of late ’90s deconstruction). Or the diaphanous, gauzy lilac and claret silks for dresses which had a languid softness and lightness that felt new for him, and which were the perfect foil for the substantially scaled pendants Mouret’s sculptor husband, James Webster, had crafted. They, like the rest of what was on show here, were a labor of love.

 

Available in Jade Plaza Indonesia