A designer should define silhouettes not just clothes: this season’s silhouette is the evolution and continuation of Roland Mouret’s work over the years. By incorporating tailoring and craftsmanship into my collections, he’s inviting you to play with the silhouette as a way to convey personal style. Talking about style, this collection takes inspiration from that 80s era in New York during the financial crack when the city almost went bankrupt. During those moments, we reinvent and define ourselves, changing fears into something positive that in turn brings newness. What is luxury in times of crisis? It’s style.

Roland Mouret offers a highly personal and unique experience for the Autumn Winter 2019 collection, inspired by Lee Miller. Lee Miller, whose journey from model, to fashion photographer and ultimately World War II reportage photographer, is an icon of the 20th century. She refused to be defined by gender, age or beauty. Mouret has drawn inspiration from her resilience and enthusiasm for her creative career and from her indomitable spirit during a period of trauma, recession and uncertainty.

Roland Mouret’s SS19 collection plays with an introvert sexuality that manifests itself throughout the collection. Drawing thematically from the 1974 first softcore porn film Emmanuelle, with its subtext that spoke for women to unapologetically own their sexuality, through to the global call for action presently from movements such as #timesup and #metoo, Roland redefines eroticism and fortitude, ownership and individuality in a way that is empowering to women.

At the end of the twenties’ Années Folles, the young Jacques Henri Lartigue drives from Paris to trendy Biarritz with girlfriend, model Renée Perle. He will photograph her that summer and capture not only her independent, Bohemian spirit, but the quintessential aesthetic of the French Riviera, traversing the viewer through pattern, print and striped parasols.

Roland Mouret explores this aesthetic throughout his Resort 2019 collection with an offering of relaxed silhouettes, soft tailoring, striped pleated knitwear and contrasting accents in navy, red and white.

Multi-coloured boucle stretch becomes a statement in a strong tailored suit, and a mid-length fitted skirt. Fluid dresses of painterly floral prints contrast against more formal, structured sequin and tulle gowns. Hammered satin blazers paired with a sheer dotted tulle shirt, echoes the variation in texture, light and movement as captured in the photography of Lartigue.

Nodding to Roland’s newly released book; Roland Mouret: Provoke, Attract, Seduce, the collection features 6 carefully selected styles seen in various chapters throughout the book that have been exclusively reintroduced from the archive.

Throughout the collection Roland brings a playful fluidity to his renowned emphasis on structure and silhouette, adding a dynamic twist to the Roland Mouret woman’s wardrobe.

The Roland Mouret silhouette is evolutionised further into a more relaxed fit of high-waisted wide leg trousers, flowing spotted lurex fils coupé gowns and puff sleeved A-line dresses. Fuller skirts; tea length hemlines and shoulder-baring necklines find balance in an eclectic mix of fabrics that include diamond checked weave, textured shell organza and silk hammered satin. Solid bright colours bring further life to the collection, in vivid Persian red, pistachio, candy pink and cornflower blue, whilst boxy jackets with exposed lapels and belted lightweight coats bring a structured, modern air to the collection.

Exploring the depth of what can be communicated through movement and gesture, Roland encourages women to inject their own personalities and life experiences into the pieces. Just as dance costumes enhance the performance and must allow maximum freedom of movement, yet retain yet never losing sight of the reality of the female form, Roland’s collection emphasises liberal sensuality and gracefulness.