In a week of mega-productions and experiential events, Francesco Fucci’s morning of mini-shows in a nearly empty room felt downright relaxed. As the first model glided by, he explained that he was loosely inspired by the archeological museum in Naples, which is filled with stunning Farnese marble sculptures and remnants of ancient Roman buildings. If you’re aware of Fucci’s subtle references, you might also see glimmers of a Roman column or the creamy shades of Carrara marble. The museum’s treasures informed the collection’s mostly neutral color palette—other standouts were the unlined camel leather coat and ultrawide khakis—mixed with unusual pops of lilac, chartreuse, teal, and peony to keep it all from feeling too chilly.
Theory is mostly a line of individual, wearable garments, but Fucci is passionate about educating his customers about clever ways to style them. The label recently introduced a new collection called Theory Staples, comprising timeless items that will be available year-round, including the gray wool shift dress that appeared in the show. If you never thought you’d buy a shift dress again—so corporate! so basic!—Fucci offered a compelling new way to wear it: layered over loose, silky cargo pants with sharp boots. Suddenly it didn’t look so corporate anymore. In fact, it looked pretty cool. Dresses over trousers and generally longer, looser proportions are emerging as a quiet theme this season, and Fucci—who spent five years at The Row, the ne plus ultra of luxe minimalism—is well positioned to be your resource for it next spring. Courtesy of vogue.com
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